What's happening with Tasmanian Chardonnay? Jeremy Dineen laughs when he hears the question. Or perhaps it's more of a nervous chuckle. You see, the talented winemaker from Hood Wines is way too polite to be a Chardy-pooper.
Few places in the world can produce genuinely spectacular Pinot Noir. You can put that down to a lack of sites with growing seasons long enough and cool enough to allow fruit to develop true expressions of the variety. Issues such as soil type, vineyard aspect, clonal selection, canopy management and crop load can also confound a hapless vigneron.
Setting up a new vineyard in a cool climate wine region can be a risky business. There are few safe options in selecting a suitable site and the grape varieties you plan to grow there. So it's hardly the kind of venture you'd expect Dr Mike Sharman to be considering as he contemplated early retirement in 1987.
"Somebody once said to me that organic farming is really just yesterday's and tomorrow's agriculture," muses Coal River Valley wine producer Tony Scherer. "And you know, they're right. That's all it is. It's just that somewhere in between there was a period of about 50 years where we kinda lost our way."
First impressions are often the best, and the seven tasters sharing lunch at Peter and Brenda Bosworth's Morningside Vineyard just a few Sundays ago were right about the property's 2003 vintage. Free-draining soils work wonders in wet years.
Like many leading players in the Tasmanian wine industry, Woodlea Nursery's Jerry Holder came to viticulture by an indirect means. He began his working life as a forestry ranger, and at various points along the way completed courses in outdoor education and horticultural studies.
With 30 years' experience in the Tasmanian wine industry, consultant viticulturist and vineyard owner Fred Peacock thought he'd seen it all – the bumper years; the vintage failures; the slim pickings of seasons like 2002 and 1994.
