Relbia pioneer farmer at heart

Setting up a new vineyard in a cool climate wine region can be a risky business. There are few safe options in selecting a suitable site and the grape varieties you plan to grow there. So it's hardly the kind of venture you'd expect Dr Mike Sharman to be considering as he contemplated early retirement in 1987. 

Nevertheless, that's exactly what the former DPI veterinarian and stock inspector ended up doing after he and his wife Philippa looked at how they could best utilise a small landholding they owned at Relbia called Glenbothy, outside Launceston.

In those days, far from looking at having a bit of spare time on his hands, Sharman reckoned there'd be nothing better than getting those same hands into a good bit of dirt in the heart of the North Esk Valley. Throwing caution to the wind, the couple eventually planted a half-acre (0.2ha) trial-block with a handful of different wine grape varieties to see what might be possible in the district.

"The only previous planting in these parts was way back in 1823, on a river terrace at Marchington that had a bit more elevation," Sharman says. 

"I guess I'm just a bit of a frustrated farmer really," admits the man who has since turned almost 4ha of north-facing vineyard slopes into one of the industry's best-kept secrets. 

"I suppose I'd always been looking for somewhere to plant a few grapes."

Today, wine grapes are a familiar sight for anyone passing through Relbia on the way to or from the Launceston CBD. Just down the road from the Sharmans is one of the biggest and most panoramic vineyards in the State. It's Josef Chromy Wines' 60ha Glenwood vineyard. The site is owned by Joe Chromy, former founder of Blue Ribbon Meats and Tamar Ridge Wines.

On the opposite side of the North Esk, a new 84ha vineyard at White Hills is currently taking shape under the direction of Dr Richard Smart, one of the world's leading viticulturists. Indeed, he's a vine guru par excellence. A little closer to home are smaller, well-established properties with enigmatic names like Kelly's Creek, Bundaleera, and Jingler's Creek.

Back in 1987, the region that had long been a home to grazing sheep was by no means 'a dead cert' when it came to planting vines like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. The few locals still carrying on a bit of farming there knew that Relbia was a bit drier and a bit warmer than the neighbouring suburbs of Launceston that were beginning to encroach upon their lands. But could it support a profitable vineyard, they wondered?

You bet. Just ask the vigneron who sold part of his crop last vintage to the giant mainland company Southcorp Wines and to Tasmanian producers Hood Wines and Dr Andrew Pirie. Both industry leaders see Relbia playing a pivotal role in their rapidly expanding premium wine ventures.

"I've got a lot of faith in this little valley," says Sharman as he looks back over a pioneering career spanning almost two decades. 

"It's a very small area, but it's a top place to grow vines. It's mostly on an old river system. It's well sheltered too. We're in a bit of a rain shadow here, so we get a very dry autumn.

"The climate here is really reliable. If this valley had been discovered by the French, it would all be covered in grapes by now. Instead, many people now see it as practically an untapped viticultural region. I reckon it's as good as anywhere else in Tasmania. I don't think many locals living nearby realise the tremendous potential that it's got."

Potential is one thing, but reality is surely another, Sharman adds. Viticulture is a painful business that's costly, slow and uncertain. It's not going to be a struggling farmer's salvation, no matter how romantic the picture may appear to be.

"Every decision you make is complex," he explains. 

"Nothing about a vineyard is ever simple. There are always plenty of challenges. That's what makes this such a fascinating industry."

First published December 2004: Tasmanian Farmer