Three Capes Vineyard
Suggesting a visitor might take a guided tour of the property's gardens and their historic setting before seeing either wines or vines sounds an unorthodox way of greeting guests to a vineyard. But former Brisbane psychiatrist and self-confessed Pinot-tragic Geoff Rees is not your average Tasmanian wine producer.
Indeed, scarcely anything about Saltwater River's Three Capes Vineyard could be described as 'average'.
The three capes in question – Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, and Cape Hauy – are all part of the Tasman National Park, located on the Forestier and Tasman Peninsulas in the South-East of the State. The Park is famous for Australia's highest sea cliffs and some of the country's most dramatic coastal rock formations.
Rees has justifiably dipped his lid to this spectacularly beautiful part of cool-climate Tasmania.
The district is best known for its convict-era history.
Saltwater River (previously Saltwater Creek) was once home to two convict outposts of the Port Arthur Penal Settlement.
Today's Coal Mines Historic Site was the location of Australia's first working coal mine. Established in 1833, it was renowned as a place of harsh punishment for the 'worst class' of convicts removed from Port Arthur. The ruins gained UNESCO World Heritage listing in 2010.
Three Capes Vineyard occupies land that was once part of the Saltwater River Convict Probation Station. An agricultural site established in 1841 – separate from the coal mines – it was farmed to provide crops and livestock needed to sustain Port Arthur.
Rees's private residence was built in 1847. It housed the Probation Station's hospital. The Three Capes Vineyard cellar door – which opened in early 2026 – adjoins the former medical facility and is located in the original Saltwater River store and post office, built in 1914.
It was the Tasman District's popular bushwalking trails that first drew Rees to this part of the State. The 20-year-old medical student was so smitten by Saltwater River's quiet serenity, spectacular scenery and convict-era heritage that he became a frequent visitor. Short stays eventually became long-term ownership of several historic properties.
Rees bought the former Probation Station hospital in 2008.
He retired from his Brisbane practice and moved permanently to Saltwater River in 2020, some five years or so after planting the first of his 24 clones of Pinot Noir. Those 20,000 vines were joined by 2ha of Chardonnay in 2023/2024, bringing the total vineyard area to 5.5ha.
Rees's eclectic Pinot Noir selections were the result of painstaking viticultural exploration. It included careful research of some of his favourite Burgundy terroirs. He also sought consultant advice from internationally acclaimed viticulturist and researcher, Dr Richard Smart.
Two decades ago, Smart provided advice and planning to Gunns Ltd during the company's bold expansionary phase as owner/operator of Tamar Ridge Estates. That included oversight of the East Coast developments at Apslawn. These have since become synonymous with Devil's Corner, Australia's biggest selling Pinot Noir.
(The distressed forestry giant sold its Tasmanian vineyards and Kayena winery to the Brown Family Wine Group in 2010.)
Smart sadly died in July 2025, unable to the taste the wines born from the fruit of Rees's labour.
The vine doctor was reportedly impressed by the potential he saw in the gently undulating, north-facing site.
Rees says the upper part of the vineyard is composed of black basaltic soil, derived from Jurassic dolerite. Significant basalt extrusions made it a tough soil for young vines, but they have successfully gained toeholds there.
The block's clonal selections include many of the 13 'Smart clones' that were recommended for the site. These were specially devised and bred for Tasmanian growing conditions while Smart was resident in the State during the early 2000s.
A second block – planted at a slightly lower vineyard elevation – features deep red volcanic soil. Rees says its combination of iron-rich basalt and calcium-rich mudstone bears some resemblance to that of Burgundy's celebrated red wine appellation, Nuits-Saint-Georges.
The Pinot Noir selection of choice there goes by the name of Calera. The clone was made famous by Californian producer Josh Jensen. It's said to have been sourced from Domaine de la Romanée Conti.
Management of the challenging Three Capes site is rigorous and uncompromising. Much of it is carried out by hand. Vines almost rub shoulders with one another, with spacings in some rows spanning 900mm.
Viticulture is low-impact, and prioritises soil health and biodiversity. A green, inter-row sward includes small plantings of spring bulbs and wild flowers to encourage beneficial insects.
Low maintenance Dorper sheep move onto the vineyard after harvest to take control of weeds and grasses, reducing tractor use and soil compaction. They are moved to other locations once budburst occurs in September.
Toulouse geese forage for vineyard pests, including weevils and snails. The addition of a little natural manure comes as a bonus.
The wines of Three Capes are made off-site by a highly-experienced team of Tasmanian winemakers. Each clone is hand-picked at optimum ripeness, then fermented and managed separately in small batches.
The 2026 Emeritus label pays respect to the inspirational advice and encouragement given to Rees's passion project by his consultant viticulturist.
The single-clone Three Capes Sirene is driven by its Calera selection. The label references the siren-like notes that play out over the site when winds from the nearby ocean pass through holes in the vineyard's hollow, upright trellis posts.
These are early days for this exciting new Tasman Peninsula project. Its two inaugural releases – from the 2024 and 2025 vintages – are both very impressive young wines, especially the latter.
Wine South's Spring in the Vines is back for another year from Friday 30 October until Sunday 1 November 2026.
A visit to Three Capes Vineyard will be time well spent.
Key details:
Geoff Rees: owner/operator
Vineyard/cellar door address:
724 Saltwater River Road, Saltwater River TAS 7186
Telephone:
Geoff Rees: +61 403 301 859
Email:
threecapesvineyard@gmail.com
Website:
www.threecapesvineyard.com.au
Vineyard climate data
Tasmanian viticulture takes place within a diverse mix of soil types and microclimates.
Climate data* for sites on the East Coast highlight the wide range of growing conditions here. Consider: Saltwater River Wines (MJT 16.0°C; 859 GDD) and Sterling Heights (MJT 18.3°C; 1267 GDD).
Vineyard sites on the Australian mainland are far warmer than those in Tasmania.
South Australia's Piccadilly Valley* (MJT 20.4°C; 1730 GDD) and Macedon Ranges* (MJT 19.9°C; 1365 GDD) in Victoria are regarded as the coolest GIs in their respective states.
Climate data* for Saltwater River Road, 1995-2024:
- Total annual average rainfall: 661mm
- Growing season average rainfall (Oct 1-Apr 30): 358mm
- Average autumn rainfall: 159mm
- Mean January temperature: 17.2°C
- Growing degree-days: 1083 GDD
- Average no of hot days (35°C or more) per year: 1
- Average no of cold days (minimum 4°C or less) Sept 1-April 30: 5
*Source: My Climate View, utilising past data from the Bureau of Meteorology and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. Funded by the Australian Government.
Vineyard elevation: 15-20m above sea level
Last page update: 5 September 2026