Meandering lives

Is it possible to own and operate a small Tasmanian vineyard when you've been city-bound for all of your working life? Bronya Dance and Jade Nicholls believed you could. When they first set eyes on their 3ha vineyard in northern Tasmania, it was early 2021 and they were in Melbourne, looking to jump off the corporate treadmill.

"Jade was working from home when he saw Three Willows Vineyard being advertised in a real estate guide," Dance recalls.

"He sent me an email that said, 'How about a vineyard in Tasmania?' There was a link there for me to click on. That was it…"

"I was like… Hmm… OK... I mean, it could have been any kind of business… a motel in Queensland. Anything. After two years of COVID lockdowns - working from work while schooling two young kids - we just wanted to cut loose and do something different."

Four years on – and with the property now called Meander Valley Vineyard – Dance admits life can be a bit frenetic. That noted, the former event planner says she and her business advisor husband wouldn't have it any other way. One look at the property's well-managed vines and cosy country residence and it was love at first sight. 

The surrounding views are certainly picture postcard stuff, yet the location is barely 50km south of Devonport on the Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail.

"It's been a lot of hard work but we really enjoy it," Dance says.

"The kids love it."

The vineyard today is a far cry from the greenfield site that its founders Philip Parés and Lyn Prove encountered on moving to Red Hills in 2001.

Also from interstate, they were keen to set aside the district's pastoral and cropping history to challenge New Zealand's reputation for growing great New World Pinot Noir. The couple's wine project began in earnest in 2003 with the planting of 1.0ha of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. 

Two years later, 3 Willows Vineyard (as it was then) also had a trial plot of Baco Noir.

It was an inspired addition. The red variety is a French hybrid, named after the renowned French grape breeder, Francois Baco. Historical data shows the variety was registered in 1902, following the crossing of a native North American grape with an ancient French grape then included in the production of Armagnac and Cognac.

Monsieur Baco's raison d'être had been to bred a wine variety that would not succumb to the dreaded phylloxera bug that devastated French vineyards in the latter part of the 19th century.

Baco Noir was widely planted for a time, but fell out of favour across the decades. The variety's small-to-medium-sized bunches are high in natural acidity and low in tannin, giving it multi-purpose as a table or red wine grape. 

Its resistance to downy and powdery mildew is a bonus attribute, but the variety's vintage fortunes can be compromised by early budburst on some sites, making it susceptible to frosts.

Today, Baco Noir is more likely to be found outside Europe than within it. Vineyards in New York, Michigan and Oregon began taking it on board during the 1950s. Parts of Canada – chiefly Ontario – also play host. Places where traditional European varieties do not perform as well under marginal winegrowing conditions.

Its toe-hold in northern Tasmania appears limited to Meander Valley and the Tamar Valley sites of Marion's Vineyard and Winter Brook. The variety was also planted at Elmslie Vineyard when the site was first established by the Power family in 1972, but it was subsequently grafted to Chardonnay. 

Down south, renowned winemaker Jonny Hughes takes Baco Noir from 25-year-old vines at Dover for his popular Mewstone Solstice blend.

Baco Noir appears particularly well-suited to Meander Valley. Its gentle, north-facing slope is underpinned by free-draining red basalt soils. Rich in ironstone, they maintain tight control over root-growth and vine vigour, contributing to high quality wine grapes with intense fruit flavours.

The district has experienced significant increases in growing degree days over the past 30 years. Recent climate data puts Meander Valley close to the 1000 GDD mark. A good starting point for wines with high natural acidity and delicate aromatics. 

Dance describes Baco Noir being 'like a much deeper, meatier version of our Pinot Noir wine,' adding that its modest production sells out within a matter of months.

The property's own history allowed the couple to begin their wine odyssey from a position of strength. Prior to selling in 2016, the vineyard's founders established a very effective vineyard management regime, based on organic principles. Targeted use of ground covers, composting and earth-friendly compost teas gave the site great bones, improving soil quality and vineyard biodiversity.

Subsequent owners Peter and Susan Stokes expanded plantings to include Chardonnay. An extensive network of vineyard irrigation - with remote access and management - was added. That's fed via a 72m-deep bore and improved dam infrastructure. New outbuildings also appeared during five years of ownership.

Moreover, the former Sydney couple established a successful vineyard cellar door and an on-site boutique B&B. Weddings and events were well-lubricated with Three Willows wines, made under contract by talented Pipers Brook winemakers, Shane Holloway and Fran Austin at Delamere Wines.

All that read well in Dance's playbook. 

Prior to purchase, she'd had a 20-year career in planning and managing small-scale and large-scale corporate events. 

"We were pretty well ready to hit the ground running when we arrived," Dance says.

"The vineyard was already pruned. We had a lot of help early on from Andrew Gaman at Eastford Creek Vineyard. He's been amazing. As well as being our winemaker, he's been a real mentor to both of us. He'd often come down and say, 'OK, what are you going to do about this? Here's what you need to do next...'

"He and Rob at Eastford Creek have been a big help. We've really valued their support, especially when they've been so busy with their own new winery and vineyard developments."

Four years on, vineyard management lies with her husband Jade.

"He couldn't even drive a tractor when we first got here. He's been on a pretty steep learning curve," Dance admits.

Her own role has expanded too. Cellar door and event management - along with marketing - now go hand-in-hand with running a thriving accommodation business. Two luxury glamping tents and a beautifully appointed vineyard villa called the Vintners Rest are in strong demand.

"We'll probably build another tent, depending on how these go," Dance says.

"We had plans for three, but we kinda blew our budget on cellar door renovations 18 months ago."

 If all that sounds way more than frenetic, think again.

Dance says the couple are finished with life in a big city. 

Each day now is a day shared. 

Invigorating. 

Good reason for living meandering lives.

Last page update: 26 May 2026