Escaping the rat race

Daniel Kelleher admits he never set out to grow grapes and make wine. The small-scale cattle farmer from Premaydena was 10 years into a successful career in Melbourne when he decided he'd had enough of corporate life. Time to escape the rat race and pursue something more inspiring.

Then 30-something, Kelleher left city life and took ownership of his century-old grazing property on the beautiful Tasman Peninsula. He didn't know the first thing about Black Angus cattle. Or cool-climate viticulture. But sure as hell, he was willing to learn. 

Ten years on, Kelleher and his wife Ella are still living the dream. Their vineyard at Premaydena Hill figures among the diverse locations where some 60 or so different producers in Southern Tasmania will be sharing their stories and their wines during Spring in the Vines 2026.

Organised by not-for-profit marketing group Wine South, the annual wine festival is being held this year from Friday 30 October to Sunday 1 November.

Many vineyards taking part are only open for Wine South festivals and are closed at other times in the year. Some will operate special pop-up cellar doors for the weekend. You'll find the full list of Spring in the Vines participants HERE.

South-eastern landscapes below Maria Island – as well as on Tasman Peninsula – have become something of a new frontier for cool-climate viticulture in recent years.

Bream Creek Vineyard was established there in 1974, making it one of Tasmania's oldest vineyards. However, the majority of the producers in these parts – like Premaydena Hill – are much more recent arrivals.

They're also Wine South's most far-flung vineyard members. Good reason to plan a special day out and make a bee-line to visit a small number of them.

The Tasman District is best known for its convict-era history. The former Port Arthur Penal Settlement needs little introduction. It welcomes around 350,000 visitors each year.

The Tasman National Park, meanwhile, is famous for playing host to Australia's highest sea cliffs and some of the country's most dramatic coastal rock formations.

More reasons to visit.

Premaydena Hill's warm and welcoming cellar door opened in December 2023. It's literally perched on top of a hill. It offers superb views across the broad expanse of Norfolk Bay. Beyond the peninsula and the township of Dunalley lies Marion Bay. Maria Island can be seen in the far distance. 

Glance back over your shoulders to the vistas behind you and Bruny Island looms large in the foreground.

The couple's cellar door is located in a faithfully restored farm cottage that has been on the property since 1910. Vineyard visitors capable of taking their eyes off the views here can enjoy good quality tastings and freshly-prepared food platters.

Dry-grown Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Shiraz from the 3ha vineyard contribute to an extensive portfolio of wines that are exclusively small batch and single vineyard. A bottle-fermented blend of all three Champagne varieties is aged on lees for 30 months before its release as vintage Estate Sparkling.

Premaydena Hill also runs 100 head of cattle. Another 100 or so are born and sold each year under a value-adding program of paddock-to-packaged meat. Make some enquiries. It might need a little more preparation than simply opening a bottle of Pinot Noir but will be no less memorable at the meal table.

Live oyster shucking, vertical wine tastings, new releases and back catalogue access are already part of the Spring in the Vines' menu.

Travel 10 minutes north-east from Premaydena Hill and you'll find yourself at Saltwater River. Previously Saltwater Creek, it was once home to two convict outposts of the Port Arthur Penal Settlement. Today, it's home to former Brisbane psychiatrist Geoff Rees and his Three Capes Vineyard.

The three capes in question – Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, and Cape Hauy – are all part of the forementioned Tasman National Park.

The 5.5ha vineyard Rees first planted here in 2015 occcupies land that was once part of the Saltwater River Convict Probation Station. Established in 1841 as an agricultural site, the property was farmed to provide crops and livestock needed to sustain Port Arthur.

Convict-built cobblestone roads are still evident over much of the vineyard and nearby farm.

Rees's own private residence was built in 1847. It once housed the Probation Station's hospital. His Three Capes Vineyard cellar door – which opened early in 2026 – adjoins the former medical facility. It was the original Saltwater River store and post office, built in 1914.

A self-confessed Pinot-tragic, Rees retired from his practice and moved permanently to Saltwater River in 2020. His vineyard is predominantly Pinot Noir (3.5ha), and includes no less than 24 clonal selections of the cool-climate variety.

Some 2ha of Chardonnay were added in 2023/2024.

Rees's eclectic Pinot Noir selections were the result of some painstaking viticultural explorations that included careful research of some of his favourite Burgundy terroirs. He also sought consultant advice from internationally acclaimed viticulturist and researcher, Dr Richard Smart.

The good vine-doctor helped source 13 'Smart clones' he recommended for the site. These were specially devised and bred for Tasmanian growing conditions while Smart was resident in the State during the early 2000s.

Pinot Noir is the only variety in commercial production at the moment. Each clone is hand-picked at optimum ripeness, then fermented and managed separately in small batches.

The wines are made off-site by highly-experienced Tasmanian winemakers.

While these are very early days for this exciting new Tasman Peninsula project, its two current releases – from the 2024 and 2025 vintages – are both very impressive young wines.

Pinot Noir enthusiasts will find a visit to Three Capes Vineyard will be time well spent. It's around 100km from the Hobart GPO (90 minutes by car). Rees is passionate about the variety and is a very thoughtful and engaging cellar door host.

Halving your travel time to 45 minutes (50km) and instead heading south of Hobart will see you arriving at the Huon Valley's most far-flung vineyard, Heriots Point.

Huon River Cruises departs from Heriots Point on a regular basis. You can also book a private cruise and a wine tasting in the Heriots Point Boat Shed Cellar Door before you depart for your spot of cruising on the Huon River. Further details HERE.

Only the most cold-hearted visitors will fail to be moved by the incredible valley views here. Evan Rolley's 2ha hand-tended vineyard at Castle Forbes Bay sits just above the riverbank. Pull up a seat and the former forester will tell you some of the history in these parts.

Back in the 1840s, the valley was a home to timber fellers, boatbuilders and river traders. Within 50 years, families there were supporting or growing close to 550 orchards.

By the time Rolley took ownership of Heriots Point Farm in the early 1990s, the Heriot and Walker families that preceded him were long gone. So too were the apples.

In the early-1990s, Rolley began planting blue gums to create a woodland habitat. He then added a patchwork quilt of Chardonnay, Sylvaner and Pinot Noir.

A Pinot-tragic like Rees at Three Capes, he's has gone one step further, by giving his wines extended cellar maturation before they are released for sale at the cellar door.

The current Heriots Point offerings include Pinot Noirs from 2010 ($38), 2012 ($38.50) and 2013 ($37). The 2012 has held its colour very well and delivers good ripe flavours in the red berry/ripe plum fruit spectrum. Its savoury, almost Italianate finish helps make it a very affordable, food-friendly wine.

Vertical tastings are always fascinating and instructive.

Rolley has realised that the tyranny of distance will prevent some potential visitors from making their way to his cellar door during the Spring in the Vines festival. He's teamed up with the Huon Valley's popular Kermandie Hotel to present 'Heriots Point Wine Dinner' on Friday 23 October.

Canapes and an entrée will be followed by a main course of 8-hour slow-braised beef cheek. Rolley will be reaching into the cellar to match the evening's fine fare. Three carefully cellared Pinot Noirs from 2004, 2010 and 2012 will be supported by the vineyard's 2022 Sleeping Beauty Sparkling (made by Kate Hill) and the 2023 Heriots Point Huon White.

The evening's host will offer some interesting insights into his vineyard's 26-year history.

The all-inclusive price is $80 per head.

The Kermandie Hotel is located at Port Huon, 20 kilometres south of Huonville. Dinner bookings are essential. Details HERE.

Last page update: 14 October 2026