2026 Holm Oak Riesling $35

Renowned UK wine columnist and author Jancis Robinson MW once remarked that Riesling enthusiasts 'tend to be cleverer, wittier and better-looking than the average wine-lover.'

Probably just a flippant, throw-away line meant to be amusing, there's nevertheless a tiny grain of truth there. Riesling's best expressions are often among the most accessible and affordable wines when you compare them with other classic varieties from northern Europe, like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Tasmania does cool-climate Riesling particularly well. It's such a pity to see its fan-base defined by a relatively small, hard-core band of passionate aficionados. The variety deserves more widespread popularity. Riesling is a no-brainer when it comes to partnering freshly-shucked local oysters, line-caught trout, homegrown salads and Asian-inspired stir-fries.

Holm Oak's Tim and Rebecca Duffy have an enviable track-record for producing topnotch Riesling from their Rowella property alongside the kanamaluka/River Tamar. Their 35-year-old vines were originally planted by vineyard founders Edward and Nick Butler.

Three clonal selections of unknown origin contribute to the vineyard's fresh, dry minerally/citrus style.

In the ultra-low yielding 2025-2026 growing season, Holm Oak's Riesling block produced less than half the volume the site would typically harvest from a cool, dry vintage. The upside is a fine, razor-sharp expression that is packed with pithy lime/citrus and green apple flavours. The variety's floral notes also seem to carry a certain spicy/ripe pear element.

This is no shy and retiring Riesling. Not long off the bottling line when first tasted in early September, the wine opened up on the palate with all guns blazing. It's also one of the driest (2.5g/L residual sugar) Rieslings the Duffys have produced over the past 20+ years, so the finish is suitably bright and punchy.

If zingy Tasmanian Riesling is your bag, be sure to secure your stash soon. The modest volume of wine made in 2026 will probably sell out before we see New Year.

Source: Cellar door purchase

www.holmoakvineyards.com.au

Last page update: 29 October 2026