2025 Three Capes Small Batch Pinot Noir $49

Saltwater River's Three Capes Vineyard pays respect to the three dramatic land formations that define the rugged beauty of the Tasman Peninsula – Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, and Cape Hauy. The region is home to Australia's highest sea cliffs – massive Jurassic dolerite intrusions that have refused to be worn-down by wind and water over 180 million years of geological history.

Neighbouring farmland and native bush blocks offer rough, tough vineyard country for ambitious winegrowers like Geoff Rees, who planted the first of his 20,000 Pinot Noir vines on the former Convict Probation Station back in 2015.

There are now 24 different clonal selections scattered across the landscape here.

Viticulture on site is low-impact but intensive, prioritising soil health and vineyard biodiversity over harsh commercial imperatives. Close-planting (as close as 900mm between vines) and rigorous canopy management constrain vegetative growth and crop yields, with the upside being fruit that displays varietal character and flavour intensity. That's already impressive for a Pinot project still in its developmental phase.

The recently released 2025 Small Batch Pinot Noir marks 10 years of passion and patience by the former Brisbane health professional. This is a cracker of a young wine, something made immediately apparent by the bright crimson hues that meet the eye when the wine is poured and given a bit of aeration.

It's not especially deep in colour, but there's luminosity and vibrancy here. More attention-grabbing, however, is the diverse range of aromas that spring to life – ripe cherry/berry notes, of course, along with floral nuances too. White flowers, violets, native sassafras. A hint of sweet vanillin oak/kitchen spice rack mingles in the background.

The palate is elegance personified, thanks to the craftsmanship of contract winemaker Peter Dredge. (His recent achievements include collecting the silverware at the Australian Pinot Noir Challenge, as well as winning the Jimmy Watson and James Halliday Trophies.)

The wine simply glides across the palate. Left open for 24 hours or so, it picks up a gorgeous plushness in texture, with those red fruits and dark cherry elements being very neatly trimmed by some cashew-like oak and a certain savouriness that offers a welcome counterpoint.

Delicious, smooth, lingering – all the essentials are there to provide very stylish current drinking. But I have a sneaking suspicion that like many well-made, neatly balanced Pinot Noirs from the excellent 2025 vintage, the wine should also age very gracefully indeed over the next decade or so.

It'll be a test of willpower. Be warned.

Source: Vineyard cellar door at Saltwater River

Last page update: 29 October 2026