2024 Utzinger Black Label Chardonnay $60

06/26/2025

Lauren and Matthias Utzinger currently have 5ha of young vines established on a hilltop overlooking the Tamar River/kanamaluka at Legana in the State's north. The north-east facing site greets the sun early in the morning and benefits from light reflected from the river nearby. Planting density is a labour-intensive 6,500 vines/ha. You've got to love your site to tend it fastidiously, as the Utzingers clearly do with the vineyard already being certified organic.

The couple's journey into wine began on the other side of the world, so it's not surprising their marvellous top drawer barrel-fermented Chardonnay has a distinctly European feel to it. Matthias is Swiss-trained.

Six clones of Chardonnay straddle these pebbly iron-rich soils. The Black Label wine is a top tier product, produced in minuscule quantities but with maximum thought and care to viticulture and winemaking along the way. The couple assert their wines are grown not made, so minimal intervention is the order of the day in the couple's on-site winery.

The wine glows star bright in the glass, with polished pale gold hues. Struck match and minerally notes are part of its initial expression, with time slowly revealing a potent but lively citrussy/baked apple melange with hints of white nectarine. The palate itself really makes a statement - this is a well crafted Chardonnay that's going places. Ripe fruit gives it potency but there's also a certain persuasive elegance to it as well. The Utzingers want it to charm you with its precision, not club you about the head with blunt force to render you senseless.

To that extent, this vintage of Black Label is a great success. The flavours linger on and on, with some lime/green melon notes and nicely balanced natural acidity giving it verve and energy. This is indeed a Chardonnay for a very special occasion. The price is not be questioned. The quality and value for money are superb.

Source: Trade tasting, Hobart, 25 June 2025