2024 Charles Reuben Estate Light Oak Chardonnay $70
After spending years looking wistfully across the road at their neighbour's vineyard, Louise and Jens Volkmann purchased Charles Reuben Estate from the Krushka family in 2013. The 4ha site at Tea Tree – north of Richmond in the Coal River Valley – needed a bit of TLC.
The Volkmanns pruned hard and worked themselves even harder. It was a slow process re-invigorating the 20-year-old vineyard. Today, it produces Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and a very interesting Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé.
The couple are keen to put to bed the 1980s Chardonnay mantra of 'No wood, no good.' Charles Reuben Estate has produced both oaked and unoaked variants in the past and in 2024 settled on something midway between the two.
The result carries barely 12.7 percent alcohol, suggesting this is a Chardonnay that's eminently suited to oily Tasmanian finfish like mackerel, salmon and swordfish. (Two decades ago, Riesling might have been a more typical choice but the great Germanic white variety has really fallen from favour among consumers.)
The wine sits bright, pale and perky in the glass, with white nectarine and citrus notes telegraphing its cool-climate origins. Those same characters – along with a hint of green apple or pear – roll through the palate with cleansing effect.
Yes, the wine is dry, but the acidity is lingering and balanced rather than brisk. Subtle charry French oak completes the picture.
Tasmanian Chardonnay often has excellent ageing potential. It will be interesting to see whether the Volkmann's lightly-oaked wine sticks to that script.
Try it as an alternative to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
Source: Cellar door purchase.
The cellar door is open by appointment. Book online.
Last page update: 30 July 2026