2023 Laurel Bank Pinot Noir $45

02/28/2025

Laurel and Kerry Carland established Laurel Bank on their hilltop site at Granton - overlooking the River Derwent - in 1986. Quiet and self-effacing, former industrial chemist Kerry Carland is happiest in the vineyard he planted and prefers to let his wines speak for themselves.

US President Teddy Roosevelt might have said 'speak softly and carry a big stick' well over a century ago, but the saying could easily apply to this release of Laurel Bank Pinot Noir. Those old Granton vines have really been pumping iron over the years because this is one very serious, well-structured red from the big end of town. Impressive depth of colour is matched by equally deep ripe fruit aromas, mostly black cherry with elements of dark plum and a modicum of oak.

Those same dark fruits pack the palate. It really is more than ample for Pinot Noir. Black cherry grapples for dominance with savoury, almost fennel/licorice spice. The tannins are ripe and firm, offering great support to the length of flavour on offer. Oak comes almost as an after thought in a style that is currently more chunky than charming. Laurel Bank Pinot Noirs are never short on natural acidity but in this low-cropping vintage it's barely noticeable.

This will be a fascinating wine to keep coming back to over the next decade. There's no doubt it will have an enormously long life in the bottle, but whether that equates to the development of significant complexity and further drinking enjoyment is open to question. A Pinot Noir for Shiraz lovers.

Source: Cellar door during Southern Open Vineyards Weekend, Wine South, March 2025