2023 Haddow + Dineen Grain of Truth Pinot Gris $60

06/28/2025

Well this is interesting. Domaine A founder Peter Althaus was no fan of Pinot Gris, but if he had been, this would be the kind of wine he would have created for his celebrated Lady A label. It too would be hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and barrel-fermented. Unfined and unfiltered - and understood by too few. Price included.

Winemaker Jeremy Dineen surely had his mind on the Northern Hemisphere when he brought to life this curiously named Pinot Gris. It's all about richness and texture. There's always risk associated with wild ferments, but the rewards worth it when you know what you're doing. And this is Gris with attitude. Wild.

It's not just essence of ripe pear. There's a lot going on here. Skin contact has given it some colour with a range of fruit expression, from lemon/citrus and poached apples to glacé fruits, leatherwood honey and musk/Turkish delight. If it has any real vices it's that it's a bit OTT for me. I like a bit more restraint in my wines. But you have to admire what Dineen has managed to produce from a popular variety that is seldom more than the wine equivalent of Clark Kent. It will be interesting to see if a slightly more refined style appears over time - not that much need to be done other than add a little more length to the palate. It's not short but that volume of flavour comes with the loud switch turned up to 10.

Source: Trade tasting, Hobart, 25 June 2025